Sunday, September 23, 2007

How to get acne free skin

When last we spoke I left you with the concept of disordered keratinization causing acne. That means that cells turn over erratically and tend to stick to each other. When these cells are stuck together inside the pore of an oil gland or hair follicle they gum up the follicle and accumulate the oil that is secreted from the gland. This gunk can look like a black-head, or open comedone; or it can look like a white pustule, or closed comedone. If the follicle leaks the oily gunk into the surrounding skin it can result in inflammation which causes red bumps, or papules; or what my patients call painful undergrounders, or cysts.
Most of our patients fall under the strictly disordered keratinization group and these patients can often treat themselves with over-the-counter preparations. The best is salacylic acid because it dissolves the glue that holds the gunk together and allows the pores to open. Benzoyl peroxide is good for many patients because it reduces the bacteria on the skin and in the pores which reduces the amount of fatty acids that bacteria can produce when they ingest the oil from the oil glands. Vitamin A acid, called tretinoin, is found primarily and indirectly in many products such as retin A, remova, differin gel, and others. It re-orders the turnover of the skin and compacts the skin so that pores can empty. Sometimes these products are combined with topical antibiotics. If all of these choices are confusing it even gets worse because many patients think that when their skin is irritated and peels the medicine is working. That is not true. Medicines work by decreasing the abnormal turnover of the skin and/or by decreasing the amount of fatty acids in the pores. Irritation is bad and can even make acne worse. It even looks bad.
If you experience irritation reduce the frequency or the amount of products you put on. When someone tells you putting these products on your skin will first make you look worse and then better, have them use it on their own skin.
When you are in doubt seek the care of a dermatologist. There are so many other providers of acne care including medi-spas, salons, and other specialists that the amount of misinformation being spread is almost as great as the amount of free advice that is available. Be smart- be safe- when in doubt see a skin care specialist. And there is nothing wrong with 2 opinions!!